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Wednesday, March 27, 2002

Letter From Austin: Finding Community At SXSW, Part Three

Neumu's Jenny Tatone writes: Yes, I left Texas together. But without regrets? Not exactly.

Short days of back-to-back speakers at the convention center quickly turned to long nights of back-to-back bands at venues scattered like dice along dusty concrete — and the odds weren't always in my favor.

At SXSW, I learned you've got to have a system if you want to make the most of it. Dozens of bands perform each night; if you don't play it just right, you miss the ones you want to see and see the ones you don't.

True, most clubs are located conveniently close to one another. You might think it's safe to assume you can hop from one joint to the other without missing a beat. Not so, my friend. You've got to calculate time spent en route and time spent in lines — sometimes very long lines. You've got to remember timeliness is not a priority for artists. You've got to weigh the relative importance of carrying on a conversation or catching the next gig. And sometimes, if you came down alone like I did, meeting someone means a lot more than watching another band — alone.

I didn't beat the system until my last night in Austin — just when I was ready for more! Go figure, right?

So, it's Thursday evening — my first crack at the overlapping complexities of the music schedule (remember: Wednesday was a — sniff-sniff — write-off). Neat little band list in hand, I know which artists are playing when and where I need to be for each. Piece of cake, they're all lined up. Boom-boom-boom — one by one — knock 'em down. Easy enough ... or so I thought.

Arriving early enough to miss the long line that would soon slither to the end of the block, I was right on time. Holly Golightly — an English garage-rock singer/songwriter who now lives in San Francisco — was to perform at 9 p.m. Entering through Emo's Main Room, I stopped quickly to grab a gin and club soda before finding my way into the outdoor courtyard, which separates Emo's Main Room from Emo's Jr. With picnic tables and an outdoor bar, the courtyard was a much-loved retreat — what a breath of fresh air, literally. While Emo's Main Room has a warehouse feel with its spaciousness and multiple levels, Emo's Jr. feels more claustrophobic with its low ceilings and cramped space. The dive-y club has the feel of a tavern, and seems to entice the punk rock and hipster crowds alike.

I don't know what happened to Golightly. I waited for a good 20 minutes. Apparently she had played early and I'd missed her. "I still have time to catch Pretty Girls Make Graves," I told myself as I crossed the street to the even more cramped, but not so crowded, Room 710. No band was on stage when I pulled up a stool to the oversized circular-shaped bar, which stands like a parasol in the middle of the club and unites the front room to the back, where the stage is located. I sat and waited patiently until I overheard the bartender tell a patron that Pretty Girls — an abrasive post-punk Seattle band — had just finished playing. "Shhhit," I mumbled beneath my breath. Strike two. I was down — but with hundreds to go, certainly not out.

It's the domino effect — one foul-up causes another. This would not be the last frustrating time I'd miss out. Holly Golightly eliminated my chance of seeing Pretty Girls Make Graves, Dead Low Tide knocked out Mooney Suzuki and Chicks on Speed won out over Clinic. Then the Catheters struck out the Immortal Lee County Killers while Cherry Valence beat the Briefs. Choices, choices — it couldn't be more frustrating ... or more fun!

And remember: It wasn't necessarily a battle of the bands. Sometimes it was about the people you met and the bands starred on their lists. Just like life, you ended up missing the expected and catching the unexpected — some disappointing "should have" and "could have," the rest serendipity's happy accidents. Like Pop always said, you win some, you lose some.

During the course of my three humid evenings of sensory overload, street-walking and badge-bragging in Austin, I spent an unreasonable amount of time at Emo's (both of 'em) and caught some mind-blowing and -altering acts. Here, I saw the powerful, seductive blues-y rock of Detroit's Von Bondies and the erratic, stop-start beats and high-pitched rapping of Germany's Chicks on Speed. I was also a lucky audience member at the so-loud-I-want-to-puke-yet-I-will-risk-my-hearing-for-this hard rock of Cherry Valence from Raleigh, N.C., and a quirky puppet show by the equally wacky and creative Quintron and Miss Pussycat from New Orleans.

Likely my second most-frequented club was Room 710. Slouching just off 6th Street on Red River Road, the small, dark joint will be best remembered for the merry-go-round bar and the ultra-minimal crowd space. But, most importantly, I'll remember this joint for housing some of the best SXSW acts, including the explosive, shrieking punk rock of Seattle's The Catheters, The Nerves from Chicago and Toronto's Deadly Snakes.

By far my best live experience at SXSW was the Yeah Yeah Yeahs' second, secret performance at the quaint, café-style Hickory St. Bar & Grill. Saturday's unscheduled show, found only by word of mouth, was far more up close and personal than Friday's advertised show at La Zona Rosa — a much larger, warehouse-like venue where I could barely see the three energetic New Yorkers onstage. But on the small outdoor stage, about two feet tall with a tree-branched ceiling, I could watch the raw punk-rock group so deeply immersed in their sound, so passionate about the music, I had to be the same. And those who, like me, had gotten word of this performance seemed equally lost in the music. With guitarist Nick Zinner and drummer Brian Chase keeping mostly to themselves, lead singer Karen O. was definitely the star attraction, wearing dark blue jeans and an undersized off-white thrift store sweater with hearts across the chest (it looked very 1977, fitting the trio's sound). Her short, shaggy black hair fell around her pale face; when she smiled, shook and pulled at a beer bottle with such sexiness and silliness, you couldn't help but be drawn in. She's cute, but with an obvious and entertaining control over the crowd. You know she's toying with you.

Now, home in Portland and looking back, I relish the bands I witnessed and kick myself over the ones I missed. So maybe I didn't roll snake eyes. But they say hindsight is 20/20. Boom-boom-boom — I am so ready for you, SXSW 2003!

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